Dom Perignon Oenotheque 1970 (750ML)

94 BH

I was struck by how youthful the color was as it remains pale with only trace of gold on the rim. There is excellent aromatic complexity with absolutely no oxidative elements discernible on the fully mature and completely classic nose that is redolent of aged Champagne that includes an abundance of yeast and brioche nuances to the apple, pear and dried floral scents. What is perhaps all the more impressive is just how much this improved with air. Initially the palate impression was on the leaner side with an interesting but not sublime texture yet the volume and refinement seemed to only grow and improve with each sip. This is definitely a wine where a cursory impression would have been a complete injustice as it's unusual to see a wine change quite this much in the course of only 20 minutes. In any event, this is a knockout and one that is still holding with no evident signs of an imminent decline in sight. - Allen Meadows, Burghound