Domaine de la Bongran (Thevenet) Vire-Clesse Cuvee E.J. Thevenet 2014 (750ML)

94 WA

The 2014 Viré-Clessé Cuvée E. J. Thevenet is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with aromas of green orchard fruit, almond paste and honeycomb that are still quite youthfully reserved. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, lively and elegantly textural, with a satiny attack, attractive purity and a suppler, more inviting profile than the blocky, super concentrated 2015 rendition, but it's also showing more reserve than the tender, inviting 2013. Though it can be enjoyed now, to my palate, the real excitement will come with a decade in the cellar, so patient readers should gravitate toward this bottling. 

Cuvée E. J. Thevenet, ranks as one of Burgundy's greatest wines. What's more, its longevity is legendary: even in challenging vintages such as 1984, the Thevenets' humble Mâcon is still cruising along in the cellar, while most of the Côte de Beaune's grandest whites are already senescent. Though the wines can be appreciated in their fleshy youth, to my palate, the real interest comes with a decade of bottle age: 2007 and 2008, for example, are beginning to drink brilliantly. - William Kelley – The Wine Advocate