Donnhoff Riesling Norheimer Dellchen GG 2018 (750ML)

99 JS / 95 VM / 95 DE / 19 JR

A dense and layered white with minerals, salt, white pepper, chalk, dried lemon and subtle pears. Pumice. Wow. Tiny film of oil. Creamy and insane. What a wine. Magic. One for the cellar. Drink or hold.—James Suckling

Scents of white peach and pear strongly marked by pit and seed arouse expectations of both juiciness and piquancy that are amply fulfilled on a full, glossy palate. A whiff of gentian anticipates bittersweet inner-mouth florality. There is a bit more gloss here and a bit less firmness than displayed by the other dry Dönnhoff 2018s, but also an inexplicable sense of lift despite close to 13% alcohol. The overall impression is impressively rich, but the superbly sustained finish delivers a pleasant sharpness of raw ginger, mouthwatering and lip-licking salinity and a riveting array of stony, alkaline and ineffable mineral notes. “In 1965,” noted Dönnhoff, referring to one of the most notoriously awful vintages for Riesling Germany in anyone’s memory, “Dellchen was the sole site from which it proved possible to render a Naturwein – to achieve completeness without having to do anything to the must – and that really impressed me. But at the same time, this site has an amazing ability to withstand even extreme drought, because there is a critical source of water beneath it. And if that weren’t the case, these sunexposed terraces” – which also catch reflected light from unprecedented nearness to the Nahe’s surface – “would easily overheat.”—DS., Vinous Media

From a site of slate and porphyry facing the Nahe river and from Cornelius Dönnhoff's capable hands, this is an expression of stone and sun. A very scented nose of citric ripeness sets the tone. The palate is mild and fresh at the same time, pristine and vivid but beautifully balanced and ripe. Hints of juicy stone fruit shine through on the concentrated, svelte palate but the finish belongs entirely to lasting, refreshing zestiness.—Anne Krebiehl MW, Decanter

As pure as the driven snow is just an old cliché, but one might be tempted to leave the description there in view of the inadequacy of words to describe the sophistication of the Dellchen. The fruit is filigree, the minerality cool and invigorating, the acidity exhilarating. Proof that opulence and power are not the be all and end all of great Riesling. -- Michael Schmidt, Decanter