Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Neore (Ex-Domaine) 2010 (750ML)

95 WA

The Vatan 2010 Sancerre Clos la Neore is fascinatingly – indeed, almost mind-bendingly – complex, already in the nose. Musk, white truffle, citrus oils, bittersweet floral perfume, lime and tangerine, as well as fusil, chalky and maritime mineral notes associated with Kimmeridgian origins waft in a kaleidoscopically interactive array. Fresh citrus and a stony-chalky undertone take the lead on a silken-textured palate but with almost electrically charged vivacity of interaction emerging in the long, saliva-liberating finish, mirroring the wine’s remarkable aromatic show. This will be at least a twenty year keeper worthy of comparison with such memorable past vintages as 1988, 1990, or 1996, each of which has shown gloriously when tasted within the past couple of years.

The entirely of Edmond Vatan Sancerre nowadays sojourns each vintage in two of the seven old steel tanks familiar to anyone who visited this grower over the past 20 or so years, and the young wine no doubt requires less looking-after by Anne Vatan-Foucault – who must drive three hours to get there from Chace – than do her parents. (I savored some sit down time with Edmond Vatan this year: he is moving slowly now, but still very much with us, and along with his charming wife is predictably full of fascinating memories.) A single associate tends the 2.5 acre section of Clos la Neore not far from the family home; and no doubt Anne’s husband – Nadie Foucault of Clos Rougeard fame, who tasted along with us this April – contributes some insights and efforts as well to the cause of perpetuating this venerable Sancerre. After alcoholically burdened renditions of Clos Neore in 2008 as well as 2009, it was a relief to experience the expressiveness and balance (albeit at far-from-shy 13.8% alcohol each) of the two wines that have followed. The 2011 was harvested September 13 and the 2010 not until October 10.