Jacques Selosse Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Millesime 2003 (750ML)

97 JS

A wine that has an absolutely unique character, Selosse has interpreted a truly extraordinary vintage with poetic insight. He describes the double stresses of an April frost that claimed 75% of the yield in Avize, coupled with a very hot and dry June and August. He speaks of the evapotranspiration and the effect of depositing an immense amount of mineral residue into the plant, which has manifested in this striking wine, and compares it to a chef reducing and concentrating a sauce. The smoky, toasty notes are more than autolysis; you can smell the heat of the vintage here. It has profound stony and chalky aromas, gentle spices, grilled hazelnuts and dehydrated stone fruits. The minerals explode onto the palate. It's electric, hitting like an ionic blast before rolling out dark nutty flavors ahead of plush orange and ripe nectarine, peach and big, rich phenolics. It has many layers through the finish. Extremely long, balanced and resolved. Drink now or age confidently for a fascinating savory journey - this has a sturdy nature. - James Suckling