Nikolaihof Wachau Riesling Vinothek 1995 (750ML)

100 WA

Words nearly (!) failed when faced with Nikolaihof’s 1995 Riesling Vinothek, a Smaragd of 12.5% alcohol bottled after seventeen years in cask, and without question one of the most haunting Riesling wines of my experience. Frangipane, chamomile, freesia and rowan in the nose liquefy in a most extraordinary way on a silken palate to achieve an impression of virtually weightless floral perfume that glides all the way through to ... well, can you speak of “finish” when a wine doesn’t? Piquant nut oils and peach kernel along with a shadow-like shifting of subtly stony undertones lend counterpoint, enveloping richness, and further mystery to this amazing libation, bringing it, if you will – or at least, trying to bring it – down to earth. I won’t attempt to suggest how long this might continue on its magnificent way, though the closest precedent – Nikolaihof’s 1990 “Vinothek” bottling – isn’t fading. And this 1995 held up superbly for days after opening. DS – The Wine Advocate