Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra 1990 (750ML)

97 VM / 95 WA

The 1990 Barolo La Serra has aged exceptionally; in fact it is fresher than the 1989 Barolos I tasted alongside it. The wine reveals gorgeous purity in a mélange of red fruits and flowers that comes together on the palate in stunning style. As beautiful as the 1990 Barolo La Serra is today, it clearly has enough freshness to last another ten years. This is an extraordinary, towering Barolo from Roberto Voerzio. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

The 1990 Barolo La Serra offers graceful tertiary highlights of spice, leather and coffee grinds contrasted against dark fruit nuances of pressed blackberry and plum. The years from 1988 to 1995 denote one of the most exciting phases in the history of this estate, when Roberto was furiously experimenting with a wide choice of oak styles and vessels to set the groundwork for what would eventually become his trademark (some call it “modernist”) style. This wine sees a combination of botte grande and barrique. What I most appreciate in the bouquet are the budding mineral notes of crushed granite and polished river stone that so perfectly frame the opulent core of fruit. Those drying mineral notes add a stunning veil of femininity and refinement. Roberto has seriously reduced vineyard yields over the past decades and estimates that the amount of fruit harvested in 1990 was roughly three times what he would typically pick today. Interestingly, the wine in no way feels over-cropped or watered-down. In fact, it boasts a firm tannic backbone, good intensity and a wonderful blast of black licorice on the lengthy close. Drink: 2014-2028. - Monica Larner, Wine Advocate