Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame Yayoi Kusama Limited Edition 2012 (750ML)

96 DE / 96 WE / 95 WI / 95 WS / 94 JS / 93 AG / 17.5 JR

#3 Wine Enthusiast's Top 100 Cellar Selections of 2020

A generous golden colour betrays the dominance of Pinot Noir in the blend; this theme thereafter maintained by aromatics of fig, wild strawberries and Mirabelle plums; behind that, jasmine, red apples and a distant whiff of woodsmoke. Engaging already, in other words. One’s impressions are confirmed and amplified on the palate, with the aspiration voiced by both chef de caves Dominique and Didier, to allow the ‘cooler’ Pinot Noir sites full rein. This is eloquently evidenced by a subtle and deftly textured structure, the primary fruit notes of nectarine and citrus peel underscored by a richer, still somewhat reticent, core, darker and more savoury of intent and oh, so subtle at the moment. I have every confidence that this characteristic will come into its own over the longer term and mark the 2012 as one of the more successful outings for this outstanding cuvée. - Simon Field, Decanter

With a slight preponderance of Pinot Noir in the blend, this wine is rich and impressive. It is still young, with a crisp edge that makes the fruit shine. Apple and citrus flavors are integrated into a mineral vein. Drink from 2022. - Roger Voss, Wine Enthusiast

The 2012 La Grande Dame Brut, a blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay with 6 g/L dosage, has a very pale lemon-straw color. It slides out with vibrant lime leaves, grapefruit, and green apple scents, followed by touches of brine and coriander seed, plus a waft of chopped almonds. The palate delivers compelling tension and a fine mousse with impressively pure citrus-flavored layers and a long chalky finish. Approachable yet still quite restrained and youthful, it should easily cellar and gain richness over the next 20 years+. - Lisa Perotti-Brown, Wine Independent

Fine and graceful, this dances across the palate with its bright, well-defined freshness and detailed flavors of Mandarin orange, toast point, crème de cassis and minerally oyster shell. Subtle in its intensity, with all the pieces seamlessly knit into an elegant whole. Disgorged September 2019. Drink now through 2030. - Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

Aromas of lime zest, lemon and brioche follow through to a full body with a round, creamy texture, fine bubbles and a delicious finish. Direct and focused 2012. Lots of elegance and energy in this. Drink or hold. - James Suckling

The 2012 La Grande Dame is terrific. In fact, it is one of the finest recent Grande Dames I can remember tasting. Vibrant and tense, the 2012 exudes energy. At this stage, the natural richness of the 2012 vintage is hidden behind the wine's bright, salivating acids. Green apple, pear, mint and white pepper add a brilliant aromatic top register. I would cellar the 2012 for at least a few years, as it is nowhere near ready to drink. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

Very difficult spring with frost and some hail but lovely summer. They could choose when to pick, on 17/18 September so a month later than 2020. Quite a bit of wind so very healthy fruit. Good acidity, as in 2004 (less than 2008). 90% Pinot Noir mainly from Aÿ, Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay and Bouzy. The 10% Chardonnay comes from the Grands Crus Avize and Mesnil-sur-Oger. Verzy and Verzenay have been favoured in 2012 for their minerality. They moved to the north from the south of the Montagne de Reims for the 2012. Full malo for all Veuve Clicquot wines so far. No oak for Grande Dame ingredients (cf vintage Veuve Clicquot). Dosage 6 g/l. 
Notably mineral – even metallic – nose. Certainly not the floral perfume of Pinot Noir but something quite tight and not at all sweet. More structured, transparent, fresh and rewarding than many a Grande Dame I have tasted before. Long and well balanced with some lift and even slight bitterness on the end. I can see winemaker Didier Mariotti's description of this as 'vertical'. - Jancis Robinson