The crossroads of civilization, in the heart of the Mediterranean, the Island of Sicily is a land of a thousand faces. 10,000 years of civilization. Greeks, Phoenicians, Romans, Carthaginians, Vandals, Normans, Aragonese, Spaniards, Germans, Bourbons, and so many more peoples have conquered, lost, crossed, and influenced the people, language, foods, and spirit of the island.
And on the far eastern side of this triangular island just off the ‘toe’ of Italy, rises Mount Etna to a height of over 11,000 feet, with almost 100 feet being added by this very active volcano in 2021 alone. In Greek mythology the deadly monster Typhon was defeated by Zeus and buried under the mountain, where his fits of rage cause the eruptions. Other myths place the forges of Hephaestus under Etna. No matter the inspiration, the living and largest active volcano in the ‘middle earth’ continues to evolve and grow with destruction, and bursts of life from that same stone.
Vineyards are planted along the slopes, mostly to the east, north and the south sides of the mountain, from 450 meters up to 1100 within the Etna DOC. There are vines are even planted above the DOC limits to experiment with high altitude wines (not unlike the extreme altitudes down in South America). The workhorse red grape of the appellation is Nerello Mascalese, which might be related distantly to Sangiovese, or related to at least 10 other Italian grapes, that thrives in the black, pomace rich soils.
The frequent eruptions spew rivers of lava and stones down the mountain side. You can see the dark barren flows throughout the villages and vineyards. Eventually life returns to the barren rock and slowly breaks down the stone into soil, from which more life springs. Vineyards are planted into this deep and dark earth, filled with the terroir that is from inside the heart of the “furnace”. Even amongst the constant eruptions, lava, smoke and debris, local life continues along as it always has for thousands of years. The foods reflecting the diversity of the island’s offerings, the farms and livestock, the bounty of the sea that surrounds the island are found throughout the area. If you visit, I highly recommend Cave Ox for pizza and great local wines.
