Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi Priorat 2021 (750ML)

96-98 WA / 96 JS / 95 WS / 17+ JR

#46 James Suckling's Top 100 Spanish Wines of 2023

The more backward of the 2021s was the 2021 Finca Dofí, which was very primary and smelled almost like the fermentation vessels, and it took time in the glass to open up. The blend is higher in Garnacha and they couldn't use the Picapoll, as it didn't work well that cool year, so it's 90% Garnacha, 9% Cariñena and 1% white grapes. It achieved 14.5% alcohol but kept better freshness than in 2020, a constant in the 2021 wines. Very promising. They expect 24,000 bottles. It should be bottled around April 2023.—Luiz Gutierrez, The Wine Advocate

Scented, delineated nose but has depth, too. It effuses wet-stone minerality that gives a thin overlay to the red and blue berries. Some spices, briar and hibiscus, too. Juicy and medium- to full-bodied on the palate, which is a little more vertical and powerful than many of Palacios’ reds, highlighted by real tension and tautness here. Goes on and on. Drink or hold.—James Suckling

A silky weightlessness and overall sense of finesse belies the pinpoint focus and tension on display in this vibrant red. A frame of taut, fine-grained tannins and bright acidity drive this wine's vervy energy while providing a well-meshed, sculpted frame. Offers aromas and flavors of crushed raspberry, Earl Grey tea leaf and tar, plus hints of rose hip, vanilla and graphite that echo on and on through the long finish. Garnacha and Samsó. Best from 2026 through 2040. —A.N., Wine Spectator

Less overtly fragrant than Álvaro's Valmira Rioja tasted beforehand. Dense on the palate but with vibrant acidity that prevents it becoming too thick-set. Granular tannins that have a long way to go to reach maturity. The red fruit is still very compact and un-luscious – perhaps that reflects the hard slate terroir. Plenty of time is needed. --Richard Hemming MW, Jancis Robinson