Antinori Cervaro della Sala 2021 (750ML)

97 JS / 96+ WA / 95 VM

#58 James Suckling's Top 100 Italian Wines of 2023

This is very aromatic and lifted with mineral, nougat, floral, and lightly cooked apples. Some flint and matchstick. Medium- to full-bodied with a fine phenolic and acid backbone that energizes the wine. Complex aftertaste with subtle fruit and pastry at the end. This will age beautifully but hard not to drink now.—James Suckling

This wine is mostly Chardonnay with about 7% Grechetto. The presence of the Grechetto has declined quite a bit over the past couple of vintages. Given these tweaks to the winemaking formula, the 2021 Cervaro della Sala promises an exceptionally crisp and linear presentation with salty mineral tones, lots of stone fruit and tart apple. No malolactic fermentation or oak is used on the Umbrian grape that always adds a hint of rusticity and Umbrian authenticity. However, the Chardonnay is fermented in oak and aged in both new and used barrel. In light of climate change, work is being completed to reduce vineyard density, with new plantings going in at 3,500 vines per hectare, down from 5,500 vines per hectare like we saw in the past.—Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate

The 2021 Cervaro della Sala comes to life in the glass with crushed stones, oyster shells and damp earth evolving into lemon oil, green apple and hints of chamomile. This is pure elegance, with silky, verging on creamy textures and brilliant acidity. A salty staining of minerality adds tremendous depth to baked apple and spice notes. It finishes crunchy and long with a citrus tinge as touches of custard and nectarine slowly fade. This is a dramatic Cervaro della Sala that possesses amazing balance. It will be fascinating to watch it mature over the coming years.--Eric Guido, Vinous Media