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Clos De Tart Grand Cru 2015 (750ML)

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Morey St Denis
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Critic Scores, Reviews & Descriptions

97-99 WA / 97 DE / 95+ VM / 94 BH

The 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was tasted both as separate cuvées from individual parcels around the vineyard (always a stimulating and insightful exercise) and of course, as the final blend, assembled in the same proportion as eventually bottled. It has a classic bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, hints of dried rose petals in a vase and a distant sea-spray scent that becomes more accentuated with time in the glass. There is a sense of restraint here, keeping lock and key on the precocity of the growing season. The palate is very well balanced with a superb line of razor-sharp acidity, palpable "coolness" imparted by the assiduous early picking. It is equipped with fine tannin, imbued with natural poise and gathers more black fruit towards the finish that offers a subtle slate-like note. It is one of the best I have tasted from this ancient vineyard, so assured and regal, destined to last more than 30 years with ease. Neal Martin – The Wine Advocate

There are eight lots here, and this is the likely definitive blend, which will be made final before bottling. Voluptuous red fruit nose displaying power, force and aromatic purity despite the new oak. Lovely attack, packed with fruit and a graceful acidity. Great clarity and precision, but it's no heavyweight, convincing by its intensity. There's 13.4% alcohol here but it's not apparent, and neither are the tannins. Harmonious and very long finish.
Drinking Window 2019 – 2040 SB – Decanter Magazine

(13.6% alcohol; from a crop level of just 22 hectoliters per hectare): Deep, bright red with ruby tones. Deeper and darker on the nose than the young 2016, offering hints of black raspberry, medicinal cherry, mocha and crushed rock; seems already to be closing down. Plump and thick in the style of the year; superripe but not at all cooked. The chewy flavors of dark fruits, stone, mocha and brown spices convey strong mineral-driven energy for the vintage, as well as the sheer dry extract to support the wine's serious tannic clout. This hugely concentrated wine spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate on the powerful, slowly mounting finish, which leaves behind an impression of medicinal reserve. Winemaker Devauges is not convinced that this wine will shut down in bottle "because of the quality of the grapes and the tannins," but I think it's inevitable. He vinified with an average of 40% whole clusters in 2015 and did just three punchdowns during the course of three weeks of maceration. By the way, this wine has a slightly lower pH than the 2016: 3.6, vs. 3.7.

Tasting note: Moderate wood frames very ripe liqueur-like aromas of plum, cassis, floral and ample spice and earth nuances. There is excellent richness to the opulent yet relatively refined big-bodied flavors that exhibit a subtle minerality on the powerful, mouth coating and driving finish that possesses outstanding complexity and persistence. There is a hint of warmth but overall this is quite well-balanced and the length is remarkable. My sense is that while this will age effortlessly for decades, it should not be particularly difficult young. Allen Meadow Burghound

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