F.X. Pichler Durnsteiner Gruner Veltliner Ried Kellerberg 2021 (750ML)

98 JS / 95+ WA

Stunning and totally original nose of mango, lychee, Amalfi lemon and a complex mix of pepper aromas. Enormous concentration, yet it’s so vibrant, the staggering mineral freshness slicing through the richness on the mid-palate like a samurai sword halving a melon. But that makes it sound more dramatic than it really is, because actually this is so still and earthed. Astonishingly textural complexity at the finish for a wine from this grape with just 13% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.—James Suckling

The 2021 Dürnsteiner Grüner Veltliner Ried Kellerberg offers a deep, clear, complex yet refined and refreshing, remarkably coolish and herbal "forest" bouquet with notes of wet stones and crushed green leaves. The fruit aromas are dark forest berries (cassis) rather than yellow stone fruits at this early stage. On the palate, this is a full-bodied yet incredibly pure and fresh, crystalline, saline and highly elegant Kellerberg with substance, well-dosed power and lingering salinity and phenolic tension. Far from being big and voluminous, this is a rather lean, elegant and finessed but tightly woven and very long Kellerberg that will unfold even more layers with longer bottle age. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in September 2022—Stephan Reinhart, The Wine Advocate