Albert Mann Pinot Gris Altenbourg Selection de Grains Nobles le Tri 2010 (375ML)

95 WA

The acidity of Barthelmes’ 2010 Pinot Gris Altenbourg Selection De Grains Nobles Le Tri – picked on October 7 – is not extreme for its genre, but still nearly half again as much as that of the corresponding 2011! Candied lemon rind, peach preserves and orange liqueur are signaled already on the nose, but there is a vivacious rivulet of primary juiciness irrigating the rich, sweet, expansive palate that seems to have its visual counterpart in the faintly green-gold glint of a surprisingly pale S.G.N. This penetrates in the finish with blazing brightness and lift worthy of a jet aircraft. All that’s wanting for sublimity is a bit more complexity, and that may well come in the course of the next several decades, during which I do not think you need to fear for this wine’s declining health! Drink: 2014-2034