Algueira Dolio 2019 (750ML)

98 DE / 96 JS / 95 WA / 95 JA

Simply, unique. It needs a lot of aeration before tasting, otherwise it can show some rusticity due to some reduction. After one hour, the wines opens up in the most delicate array of aromas, with fresh red berry fruit, some mint, a bit of of toffee. In the palate, the acidity is almost provocative, enhancing a delicious fruit expression, admirably fresh and enticing. The wine caresses your palate, with firm but suave tannins and a lovely slowness. The main variety is Mencía, but the wine has nothing to do with neighbouring Bierzo, because of that shocking freshness. Probably the most Burgundian of Spanish wines in this market, singing old vines, impressive slopes, a difficult climate; a most challenging wine because of its very originality. It can become an icon. I insist, please do not even think of trying the wine without aeration!-Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW, Decanter

Very subtle yet intense nose. Iron, nutmeg, white pepper, wild berries, savory grilled herbs and some oranges. Fresh, silky tannins seep through the berries and white pepper flavors. Extremely long and mouthwatering finish that goes on and on. Drink or hold.-James Suckling

The 2019 Dolio is a cuvée of Mencía, Brancellao (quite a lot here), Sousón, Caíño and Garnacha Tintorera created as a blend with the help of Telmo Rodríguez and Pablo Eguzkiza in this first vintage, but they should go much further in future years. They selected north- and west-facing vineyards to achieve more freshness in the wine, trying to reflect the huge potential of Ribeira Sacra. The full clusters were foot trodden and fermented in a troncoconic oak vat with indigenous yeasts and matured in 225-liter barrels and 2,000-liter foudres for 24 months. But the wine has no influence from the wood and is floral and perfumed. It has good grip, fine tannins, moderate ripeness and 14% alcohol, and it's very clean and balanced, with elegance and precision. The best wine from Algueira in recent times. 6,665 bottles were filled in May 2023. - Luis Gutierrez, Wine Advocate

From a little-known corner of Galicia, a region of Spain better known for its white wines, this has a lightness of touch, a sense of building energy through the palate, fragrant and juicy with sun-sweetened raspberry, sage and crushed rocks. Balanced, dry but juicy, this is almost impossible to spit out while tasting, delicate yet riveting. First time on the Place from Bodega Adega Algueira, and this is one to look out for. Winemaker Fernando Gonzalez, 3.7ha estate. - Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux