Billaud-Simon Chablis les Blanchots 2014 (750ML)

93-95 BH

Note: from a small .18 ha parcel of vines planted in 1971 that directly abut Les Clos; note that one of the few changes that Faiveley has made to the wine making style involves radically reducing the oak program for this wine which prior to the sale was notably generous

Producer note: As was detailed in these pages last year the competitive landscape in Chablis radically changed on July 30th 2014 with the announcement by Domaine Faiveley that it had signed a purchase contract to acquire Domaine Billaud-Simon. The purchase was consummated as agreed and Faiveley has installed its own régisseur (estate manage) to supervise vineyard operations while Faiveley will provide technical support for the winemaking. However, Jérome Flous, technical director for Faiveley, stressed that the idea is not to change the Billaud style for making ageworthy wines and the intention is to continue marketing the wines under the Billaud-Simon label. As to the changes that have been made though, Flous explained that the Petit Chablis, Chablis and Tête d'Or wines will be bottled under the Diam brand composite cork. Everything else will continue to be bottled under natural cork. In terms of the harvest, they intend to pick the Petit Chablis and Chablis vines by machine and the others will be harvested manually. Lastly, the old vines cuvée of the Mont de Milieu will no longer be bottled.

Tasting note: While there is some wood present it is much less than the approach used by Bernard Billaud and in this case it easily allows the cool, pure and elegant white flower, green apple, iodine and oyster shell aromas to be appreciated. There is fine density and even power to the medium-bodied flavors that are a combination of punch and refinement on the gorgeously long, complex and harmonious finish. This is terrific, though be aware that it is definitely going to require an extended amount of bottle age.