Blain-Gagnard Batard Montrachet Grand Cru 2015 (750ML)

96 WS / 93 BH

Gorgeous aromas of peach, apple, lemon cake and seashore herald this lush, expansive white. Harmonious, energetic and saturated, with orchard fruit, spice and mineral flavors that just won’t quit. A hedonist’s delight. Drink now through 2027. From France. - Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator

Note: from 3 different plots measuring .48 ha in Chassagne with vines planted in '52, '77 and '86

Producer note: The shy and modest Jean-Marc Blain declared that 2015 is a "rich, ripe and full-bodied vintage where it was absolutely critical to pick early or you risked having heavy whites and surmature reds. I chose to begin picking on the 31st of August and brought fruit that was as clean as I have ever seen. However, even with such an early harvest date the potential alcohols ranged from 12.2 to 13%. Volumes though were low as we were down from 25 to 30% in the white 1ers and 30 to 50% in the grands crus and the reds. In the same vein as picking early, I did almost no lees stirring to avoid further enriching the wines. I like the vintage quite a bit and while it's perhaps not classic, I am convinced that the decision to pick early was the right one under the circumstances." I have to agree with Blain's assessment as he indisputably outperformed in 2015 and in both colors.

Tasting note: The nose is presently slightly reduced but the underlying fruit clearly seems ripe. Like the Criots this is evidently rich and concentrated with its powerful big-bodied flavors that are less refined than usual but certainly don't lack for depth, structure and balance. My sense is that this will age effortlessly and indeed it is a wine that will need at least a few years first.