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Cheval Blanc 1989 (6.0L)
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Critic Scores, Reviews & Descriptions
98 DE / 96 WA / 95 VM / 95 FS / 18.5 JR
Cheval Blanc saw 25% less rainfall than average in this vintage. Summer was hot but not a heatwave – the grapes were brought in from 7 September to 5 October, the earliest harvest date in the 20th century, and there are clear hints of prune and fig, but with menthol and eucalyptus touches that give it a fresh lift and suggest that blockages of maturity just might have been the key to its longevity. Concentrated, sexy, opulent, lifted through the finish, just smoky enough. The blend, by the way, is not exact because Cabernet Sauvignon was counted with the Cabernet Franc right up until 2014. However, plantings were recorded as 54% Merlot and 46% Cabernet Franc, with a high yield of 50hl/ha (the average between 1946 and 2014 is 33hl/ha, so this is significant). Still in the fullest grip of life.-Jane Anson, Decanter
Tasted at Cheval Blanc dinner at The Ledbury. One of the finest vintages of Cheval Blanc in recent years, this is the best bottle that I have encountered. It has a show-stopping bouquet of bacon fat, roasted chestnut, blackberry and still that heavenly tincture of Italian meats. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins, so vigorous and “confident” with a tangible meatiness to that ebullient red fruit that is degrading at a glacial pace. Lovely poise on the finish with that walnut notes once again, although I did remark that over time in the glass it relinquished some of its harmony. Still, this is a Cheval that oozes charisma. Drink now-2020+ Tasted November 2010.-The Wine Advocate
The 1989 Cheval Blanc is a vintage that I have not encountered since 2010. One bottle opened was rustic and fatigued, and Pierre-Olivier Clouet opened a second that was much better. It has a gorgeous bouquet of ample red fruit, morels, black truffle, cigar box and hints of brown sugar, all very well defined and charming. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin and approaching full maturity; brown spices, bay leaf and clove infuse the red berry fruit. At 30 years of age, I suspect this 1989 will not improve further, but its robustness suggests that any decline will be graceful. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château.-Neal Martin, Vinous Media, tasted 9/19
Dark ruby garnet, ocher reflections, wider edge brightening. Delicate herbal and spicy black berry fruit, a hint of licorice, walnuts and blackberry confit, emphatically fleshy bouquet. Juicy and complex on the palate, underlined with fine roasted aromas, sweet, firm chocolaty texture, this format is at its absolute drinking peak, a ripe food companion par excellence.-Peter Moser, Falstaff
Bricky garnet and quite a broad bricky rim. Highly aromatic, fragrantly leafy and lightly floral but with a more savoury note of liquorice too. Tannins are still dense though fully rounded. This has a firm texture and an impressive savoury finish yet retains that fragrance right across the palate. Later: stronger liquorice notes but still so scented and elegant on the mid palate.- Julia Harding MW, Jancis Robinson
