Clos Mogador Nelin 2018 (750ML)

96 WA

The white 2018 Nelin is their interpretation of a white from Priorat; it's a Garnacha Blanca-based blend that fermented with indigenous yeasts and some skin contact in a very slow fermentation and a long aging where they use all different materials—oak, concrete, clay and stainless steel. They are now introducing some local varieties like Trepat Blanc and Cartoixá (the local name of Xarello), and they are slowly removing the French grape varieties—the 2018 doesn't have any Pinot Noir. They only used 2,200-liter oak foudres, and there are no more barrels. It has a moderate 13.5% alcohol and good freshness. The wine is more and more austere, with a notable absence of fruit; it's spicy and herbal, with notes of chamomile and some aromatic herbs. The palate is very balanced, with a stony and austere sensation, finishing dry. It's lively, vibrant and alive, with expressive flavors and finishing almost salty, with a bitter twist. It has a lot of finesse and nuance. It should develop nicely in bottle. This wine hasn't stopped changing in the last few years, and it surprises me more each vintage. This has to be the finest vintage to date. 7,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in June 2020. They have planted a lot of local white grapes that will come into the blend in the future..--Luis Gutiérrez, The Wine Advocate