Haut Brion 1998 (1.5L)

97 WS / 96 RP / 96 VM / 96 JS / 19 JR

Dark color, with decadent aromas of truffles, meat, ripe berries and tobacco. Turns to sweet, crushed berries. Full-bodied, with very polished tannins and a berry and mineral aftertaste. The serious tannin structure is still hiding behind the fruit of the wine. Tightly wound and beautiful. Solid as a rock. A classic wine.—'88/'98 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2008). Best after 2011. 12,000 cases made. - Wine Spectator

As reported over the last two years, this is a prodigious Haut-Brion. It exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a tight, but incredibly promising nose of smoke, earth, minerals, lead pencil, black currants, cherries, and spice. This full-bodied wine unfolds slowly, but convincingly on the palate, revealing a rich, multi-tiered, stunningly pure, symmetrical style with wonderful sweetness, ripe tannin, and a finish that lasts for nearly 45 seconds. It tastes like liquid nobility. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2035.

The 1998 Haut-Brion is a vintage that has belatedly gained respect. It's simply one of the First Growth's best vintages since the 1989/1990. This bottle shows that it still deserves cellaring. With blackberry, crushed stone, tobacco and perhaps more floral/violet scents than I recall, it is an intense bouquet that does not hold back, yet is delivered with such panache. The palate is medium-bodied but, if anything, appears to have gained weight in recent years. Cedar-infused black fruit, allspice and tobacco, with a subtle marine influence, appear toward the finish. It is a fabulous Haut-Brion that should not be overlooked. Tasted at the Lia's Wings/book dinner at Medlar restaurant.  - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

The Haut-Brion showed super decadent character with foie gras, plums and tobacco. It was full body, round and beautifully textured. It lasted for minutes after tasting. - James Suckling

Sumptuous wine made from 60% Merlot served at the château. Mellow, suave, long and polished. Glorious bottle. Great balance. Saw me nicely on to the Bordeaux-Carcassonne train that afternoon. - Jancis Robinson