Jean Noel Gagnard Caroline Lestime Sous Eguisons Hautes Cotes de Beaune 2018 (750ML)

16.5 JR

Cool and fresh on the nose. Very nicely put together and already a pleasure to drink. The screwcap is presumably preserving its undoubted qualities. Quite long. - Jancis Robinson

Even if the vineyards of the Hautes-Côtes de Beaune are 80% Pinot Noir, it's the Chardonnay variety that is predominant in the best communes of the appellation: Nantoux, Echevronne, Meloisey and La Rochepot.

This parcel is in La Rochepot, on an embankment overlooking and bordering the western part of the Saint-Aubin appellation Le Ban. The name "Sous Éguisons" refers to the cliff above the vineyard. The cliff offers protection from the north winds, which is a significant advantage given how harsh the climate is and how bitter the spring frosts are at this altitude. The natural growth cycle of the vines is also slower and the grapes mature a full week later than at lower levels. These vines are planted at a density of 10,000 vines per hectare.

In 1989, after returning from business school in Paris, Caroline L’Estimé took over the winemaking and vineyard direction from her father, Jean-Noël Gagnard. The style at this Chardonnay focused domaine is one of subtlety. In the cellar, the wines are made in a straightforward style, and thankfully gimmick-free. There are no games with reduction, so the perception of mineral nuances is textured and aromatically present and finely tuned. Flashy wood techniques and other fooling about simply aren’t her style either, just a confidently crafted set of wines that demonstrates—and concedes to—the differences between their terroirs with striking clarity. When one does organic farming like she does (along with certification for it), as well as following many biodynamic principals and treatments, a soft touch in the cellar seems the logical approach. - Becky Wasserman & Co.