Lafarge Cinq Climats Volnay 1er Cru 2021 (750ML)

94 DE / 92-94 JM / 93-94 WA / 90-92 VM / 17 JR

An almost tragic cuvée – Lafarge did not produce enough wine to make any of his premier cru wines from Volnay as a stand-alone appellation, and all five are blended here into a single premier cru bottling. The result has a fairly deep ruby hue, a lovely plummy fruit, and lots of aromatic intensity. It is a wine of outstanding quality, given the circumstances, with fresh acidity, good density and supple tannins. Lafarge remarked 'It has both the generosity of the Clos des Chênes, the minerality of Taillepieds, and the noblesse of the Clos du Château des Ducs.’-Charles Curtis MW, Decanter

All made in one tank and destemmed by hand. The colour is no deeper than the other wines. Waiting for the nose to appear. Then an extraordinary sense of harmony, with a lovely fresh peppery touch beneath, a few quality tannins. Frédéric is enjoying himself by picking out all the bits and pieces from the different vineyards: the tannins of Clos des Chênes, minerality of Caillerets, the suave fruit of Clos du Château. The harmony is astonishing but I doubt if they will do it again! Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: October 2022.-Jasper Morris, Inside Burgundy

The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru is a blend of all the domaine's five premiers crus, a first in the estate's history, cropped at a mere eight hectoliters per hectare. Unwinding in the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, orange zest and sweet spices, it's medium to full-bodied, deep and layered, with terrific concentration, ripe tannins and a long, precise, mineral finish. Only 10 barrels were produced.-William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru is essentially Lafarge's "Greatest Hits" because, for the first time in the history of the Domaine, the small yield necessitated the blending of all his Premier Crus. It still amounts to just 11 barrels! Matured with just 5% new oak, it has a beautifully defined bouquet with shimmering red fruit, briary, crushed stone and hints of shucked oyster shells. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins, classic and "strict" in style, quite sapid on the finish that demonstrates commendable matière. Moderate length. This "ensemble piece" is a delicious offering, though maybe it just misses the personalities of the individual climats.-Neal Martin, Vinous Media

Mid ruby. Red cherries and richer concentrated coulis. Darker pink and black raspberries too. Intense and rich, beating with an inner rhythm. Fine, fresh acidity and soft veil of powdery, chalky tannins. Dark, and very serious – although a shadow of the 2020 Clos du Château des Ducs, alas!-Matthew Hayes, JancisRobinson

Lafarge made so little wine in the 2021 vintage that 'les Cinq' is a blend of single vineyards.