Lafleur 1989 (1.5L)

99 JS / 98 WA

I am almost always in awe of Lafleur and this is one of the best. This is so subtle at first, but then the enchanting aromas of olive leaves, ivy, licorice, tar and treacle wash over you. In your mouth its as if youre putting exquisite, dusty velvet inside; the tannins make this wine round, fat and encompassing. Perhaps most startling of all is the freshness retained over the years despite the intense, dense fruit. It allows not only for a chewy finish, but one that makes you want to drink more. This has reached a plateau now and is perfect for drinking, though its tightly-knit structure implies yet more potential cellaring. Ive always been a believer in the 1989 vintage, and Lafleur is one of the best. Decant two hours in advance. James Suckling

Tasted from an ex-chateau bottle at the Lafleur vertical dinner at Attersee in Austria. The Lafleur 1989 still has a very deep colour. Comparing it directly against the 1988, the aromatics are immediately much more complex, initially broody and biding its time and then unfurling to reveal sous-bois, cepes, sandalwood, black truffles and beef stock. The palate is tannic and assertive having lost none of its intensity over the passing years. There is just enormous weight and dimension, a juggernaut of a Pomerol. This bottle shows hints of dried blood, green tea and dried blood. It fans out wonderfully on the finish Ò a multidimensional wine that always leaves you lost for words. It is the kind of wine you fear would stalk you down a dark alley at night. Tasted June 2012. Neal Martin