Latour 2004 (1.5L)

96 WA

The Latour 2004 has a rather more aloof, distant bouquet compared to the more immediate Lafite-Rothschild. This is a wild animal checking you out from a distance. It reluctantly unfolds with fresh tobacco, dried herbs, fennel and almost Proven¤al scents that unfold wonderfully in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a solid, structure entry that soon gives way to the layers of ripe black fruit on the mid-palate. There is more depth here than the Lafite, and the finish is more generous with elegant graphite tinged black fruit. This is candidate for the best wine of the vintage. You could broach bottles now and give it a couple of hours decanting, though I would prefer to afford mine another 2 or 3 years in bottle. Tasted March 2014. Ò Neal Martin

A terrific effort from Administrator Frederic Engerer and owner Francois Pinault, the dark ruby/purple-tinged 2004 Latour exhibits a strong cassis character intermixed with notes of crushed rocks, earth, cedar, and forest floor. Racy, elegant, but powerful with medium to full body, and sweet tannin, it will benefit from 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades. It is a very impressive offering. - Robert Parker