Royal Tokaji Essencia 2016 (375ML)

98 VM / 98 WS / 95 DE

The 2016 Essencia is a refulgent deep gold color. There’s no dabbling on the nose as it bursts with scents of Clementine, Japanese yuzu, quince and marmalade, all the tropes one expects from a Tokaji. Yet this being Essencia, those flavors are amplified without any loss in delineation. The palate is as unctuous as you expect, lacquering the inside of the mouth (and this is why a spoon is included, not for show, but the most efficient means for transferring the wine straight onto the tongue.) The tastebuds tingle with glee, reveling in untrammeled sweetness, effortlessly offset by that razor-sharp acidity that renders it not cloying in the slightest. Purer than an angelic choirboy, the 2016 is armed with immense tension on the citric finish that offers Seville orange marmalade, strawberry, mandarin and quince. Outrageous and yet sophisticated and probably indestructible.-Neal Martin, Vinous Media

A rich, vibrant sweetie that drapes the palate in a lush swathe of steeped Earl Grey tea leaf, mango lassi and baked peach flavors, with accents of pain d'épices, grilled Macadamia nut, candied ginger, white pepper and masala spices. Lip-smacking acidity reins in this rich explosion of flavor and texture, with a pinpoint, graceful precision to the balance. Long and expressive. Drink now through 2044. 191 cases made, 16 cases imported.-Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator

2016 marks Royal Tokaji’s eighth release of Essencia, following 2009 last year. The vintage saw a mild, dry winter followed by a long spring and a near-perfect summer, leading to wide spreading of botrytis. Wet weather in mid-September caused some problems but the producer managed to pick a good quantity of quality aszú berries. The precious free-run aszú juice is then slowly fermented in glass demijohns in the estate’s 13th-century cellars. By December 2019, the wine reached 1.9% alcohol, retaining an astonishing 535 g/l of sugar, well-balanced by 15.5 g/l of acidity. Dark amber in colour, it has a richly tropical nose of pineapple, mango, banana peel and maple syrup with hints of savoury mushroom complexity. Great freshness and purity on the palate, boasting zesty tangerine peel, creamy golden apple tart, molasses, and a touch of nuts on the lingering finish.-Silvia Wu, Decanter