Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey Chambertin Clos St Jacques 1er Cru 2005 (750ML)

96-97 WA

The Esmonin 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St-Jacques – unsurprisingly, incorporating virtually 100% whole cluster and new wood – bursts from the glass with scents of soy, aromatic woods, ripe black fruits, resin, rose, iris, violets, and roasted meats. Not at all effusively fruity or showy on entry, this nevertheless totally saturates the palate with fresh essence of blackberry and cherry, along with smoked and roasted meats, soy and stone, licorice and herbs. Quite tannic and palpably dense in the mouth, it displays a much sterner, less winsome personality than the Gevrey V.V. – but what a personality it has! In a remarkable finishing act, the tannins then seem to melt away, the wine grabs your palate, showering it with flowers and herbs, slathering it with black fruits and animal fat, dashing it against stones, reviving it with mineral salts, and leaving it exhilarated but utterly wrung-out. Esmonin doesn’t think her 2005s will ever “shut down”. But this one might just tell you to shut up: I suspect it will continue to control the agenda if opened any time over the next 12-15 years. (The strikingly floral, salty, savory, dynamic 2004 is gorgeous – if not in the same exalted league as this ‘05 – and well worth cellaring mid-term.) DS - The Wine Advocate