Tan Fruit Chardonnay Vojtilla Vineyard 2019 (750ML)

97 WA

Vojtilla is a small, four-acre vineyard in the Chehalem Mountains that sits at around 500 to 600 feet in elevation and, says Jim Maresh, is influenced by the nearby Willamette River. Harvested in October this vintage, the 2019 Chardonnay Vojtilla Vineyard comes from Dijon clone vines planted in 1991, and it was matured in about 25% new Damy barrels. It has a stunning perfume of quince paste and mushrooms, pastry and flowers, and the palate is satiny, plush and pure, with a seamless tangy streak and long, powerful finish.

Tan Fruit is a brand-new project from Jim Maresh, proprietor of his family winery, Arterberry Maresh, and the winemaker behind some of the most exciting Chardonnays in the Willamette Valley today. Much of the fruit for the Arterberry Maresh wines are sourced from older estate vines, and very few cases are made each year. In 2019, Maresh founded Tan Fruit, for which he will purchase fruit. "I hear about fruit for sale that I'd love to play with," he explains. "It doesn't work for Arterberry, but for Tan Fruit, there are no rules." He made six cuvées this initial vintage, and unsurprisingly, they are some of the best Chardonnays of 2019. The first set of Tan Fruit wines will be released sometime in 2022, and I hope to be first to sign up for this mailing list!--Erin Brooks, The Wine Advocate