Tolpuddle Pinot Noir Tasmania 2022 (750ML)

96 DE / 95 JS

Planted in 1988, this cool, northeast-facing vineyard (benefiting from being in a rain shadow) was bought in a spur of the moment decision by cousins Martin Shaw and Michael Hill Smith MW (of Shaw & Smith in the Adelaide Hills) in 2011. This is fermented and matured in oak barrels, about 30% new, using a proportion of whole bunch fruit. Anne Krebiehl MW: Darker fruit, peony petal, Ceylon tea. Translucent and peppery, crunchy, fine tannin: a beautifully marginal Pinot. Justin Knock MW: Beguiling nose, maritime notes, fragrant spices, cumin, red fruits, layers of flavour. Everything is here and in balance. Wonderful. Dirceu Vianna Junior MW: Generous, expressive, ripe red and dark fruits and a hint of leafiness and spice. Elegant and combines lots of ripe juicy fruit with savoury complexity.—Justin Knock MW, Decanter

Very good Tassie pinot. Root spice and earthy forestry notes of dried porcini dashi, autumnal leaves and loganberry, set in relief against a swathe of darker cherry. The spiky whole bunch inclusion is evident across the finish reeling off a whiff of dill and mezcal, yet it is largely buried by the extract and density. This should age very well, as the record at this address attests. Drink or hold. Screw cap.—James Suckling