Wein-Erbhof Stein Riesling Trocken Ohne 2016 (750ML)
Critic Scores, Reviews & Descriptions
The 2016er Grenzgänger U1 [this is how Stein refers to it at the estate; it is "Ohne" in the U.S.] was fermented with yeasts from the finest wines of the Estate in Fuder for 24 month before being bottled without any sulfur added at any time of the process. The wine still proves incredibly reduced and only gradually reveals its beautiful nose made of caramel, lemon zest, herbs and fine spices. It offers a beautiful mouthfeel on the elegant palate and leaves a refreshing feel in the long finish. - Mosel Fine Wines
Dr. Ulrich Stein is infamous for such lost causes as the reclamation of abandoned, frighteningly steep sites; and battling the entrenched 1971 German Wine Law. It seems, though, that he is more a David than a Don Quixote, because he has won them all. – David Schildknecht, The Wine Advocate
Stein’s 2016 Riesling “Ohne” is, yes, a zero-sulfur wine. It was sourced from a slate and clay-dominant site in St. Aldegund called Klosterkammer. The wine fermented naturally in old Fuder (1,000L barrel) for over 24 months, going through alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation (numerous times). Not only did the wine ferment on its full lees, Stein added the lees of his finest wines of the vintage, including lees from the vaunted “1900.” It was bottled unfined and unfiltered with zero added sulfur at any time.
What is so fascinating, what is so beautiful about this wine, is that it shows the signatures of both grape and place; this is undeniably a Riesling from the Mosel. Very often the “zero-sulfur” of a wine covers up that very essence which it, in theory, seeks to reveal. That just isn’t the case here. Certainly there is a strong note of yeast, that leesy quality which in Champagne would be called “brioche” or something refined like that. There is a nutty, saline quality, though the effect is subtle and finely woven. All this marries beautifully with sweet, ripe pears and green apples, a powerful and saturating citrus, a tart lemon-zest grip. The effect of the lees and the driving citrus, also seems to conger up garden notes, fennel seems prominent, though sweet-toned greens like mint have a role too. The acidity, that slate minerality, is the core of this wine, yet it is not the angular, razor-sharp acid of a Mosel Kabinett. Rather, it is a minerality just as dense and compact, yet smoother – like the sword polished down to a perfect sphere. This is a stunning, finessed and ethereal expression of the Mosel – both so iconic in a way, and totally singular. Sorry, but it just is. Vom Boden, Importer
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